Planting your trees

When to Plant

Plant your trees in July and August, or even as late as September when the tree has already begun shooting. If you're not immediately ready to plant you can "heel" in the young trees in a temporary position for a week or so by just digging a hole in any garden soil and completely covering the roots with damp earth. The worst thing that can happen to the tree is that the roots dry out, but dont sit it in water for to many days as it may rot.

Choosing a site

In these dry times, the site should have a good water supply especially during summer when the tree does most of it's growing. The position should idealy get a good amount of sun while being protected from the northerly and westerly winds. There is constant debate whether to plant East to West or from North to South in rows. For some there is no option, but take into account water drainage and erosion of soil, which is better up and down the slope. Keep out of the root zone of eucalyptus trees. Our dwarf fruit trees fit very happily into a back yard vegetable garden grown on fences.

Preparing the Orchard

If you have the foresight to prepare planting positions 6 months in advance it will be well repaid in early tree growth and health. We recommend digging holes 30-40cm deep and wide and filling them with compost, organic matter, scraps, manure, actually anything organic and letting it rot down for 6 months. When planting time arives the worms and soil organisms have broken down this into a rich humus and created a perfect planting environment. Plant no closer than 1.5m apart.

Setting up the espalier.

This makes it a lot easier if you get this done before planting the tree, as it gives you a guide on what angle to plant. Espaliers can be made from almost anything, but one of the easiest is to get some long metal posts (star-pickets) and simply connect some wire at the desired height. You can strain the wire with a simple tension system at each end of the espalier posts with a diagonal wire attached to a peg in the ground and twirled with a firm stick to get it tight. A post every 2-3 meters will support the wire better than a longer span. There are much more elegant systems that you can get from fencing supply shops, or make something more makeshift out of wooden posts and string. Another method is to nail / screw in some hooks into an existing wall, and tie wire between them - keeping them 10-15cm off the wall. A lattice can work too, or some makeshift bamboo tied together, although this wont last long!

Planting.

This is the easy bit compared to all the work on infrastructure. Place the roots into the hole that's been dug and fill the hole with soil. Firm the soil in a little, and water in. The stalk should be straight up or if you are using our KNNN system a bit at an angle (eg 60 degrees) so that you can then tie down the rest of the tree along the first wire.

Watering System.

The most efficient and water saving systems use drippers. Run a line on the bottom wire rather than on the ground as it doesnt get caught up with weeding tools or mowers. The time the tree needs water is when it is dry - ie late spring to early autumn. Get a feel for the ground around the tree's stem to see if you are watering enough.Maintenance. Keep the grass away from growing around the trunk of the tree. Keep the area at the base mulched and weed free, particularly perennial grasses. Have a strategy ready to proctect against pests, especially rabbits, and wallabies that just love to graze on new trees, with good fencing.

Managing Pests

After all that work getting your orchard established, all it takes is one attack from possums, rabbits, birds or wallabies to damage your tree or eat the long anticipated fruit. It does happen to most people sooner or later, even in suburban areas, and it pays to do some work to prevent it. For individual trees, a simple net thrown over the tree during harvest may be enough, but sometimes there needs to be a wire barrier all over the orchard, especially near the bush. We have seen various methods work: galvanised iron at the base, then wire netting on top to make a cage. Others have use a "floppy top" fence, in conjunction with electric fencing to prevent possums and wallabies.

Rabbits can be a pest when ring barking young trees - a some mesh wrapped 40cm at the base can help but needs to be loosened off after a few years to prevent strangulation. We have had some success painting the bottom 40cm of young trees with bitumen paint. Unless made well, any structure has a weak spot, and often then the pest cannot get out again. Birds and possums can be quite smart - once they know something tasty is there, they often come back for a feast every so often. Weak points are corners and joins in wire or netting. Also overhanging branches or fences that are easily dug under can be the downfall of what seems an impenetrable system! Otherwise a dog that keeps them at bay can help too, - it would be sad for you to see your hard work and investment devoured by the wildlife.