PRUNING

Have a look at our Articles section. You'll find dedicated articles on summer pruning, espaliering and spanish bush pruning.

Pruning is difficult to master. Some people prune a tree to hack away at excessive growth. However, an orchardist will pune a tree to establish a strong frame-work: thin out secondary growth, let in more light to the centre of the tree, increase fruiting spurs, thin out or bend vertical branches (which grow leaves) and encourage horizontal branches (which produce fruit). Pruning also encourages a pattern of fruiting rather than a yearly cycle of producing growth. But everyone has a differenet opinion about pruning so you'll have to decide yourself. Before you reach for the secateurs next time though, ask yourself "why am I doing this?"

Summer Pruning. With dwarfing fruit trees, the time to prune is in summer as the fruit set. It's easy if you are growing them on espaliers: prune off the tall vertical shoots leaving a stub of 2-3 buds. Preserve one vertical shoot close to the main stem of the tree if needing to step up to the next wire, and same with the the outermost shoot to bend down to the existing wire level thus extending the width of the tree. One doesn't have to be completely strict with cutting back to the horizontal branch, sometimes some short branches make the tree wider and increase fruiting. Generally, vertical shoots produce leaves, while horizontal ones tend to produce fruit. By cutting away the tall new growth, you keep the shape of the espalier, allow light to fall onto developing fruit, encourages more flower buds to develop, prevents large root systems and encourages a fuiting cycle. See the photos below sections for examples.

After gently pruning the excess growth away, thin the apples to reduce the congestion. Where there are four or five in a cluster and you can see that they are pressing on each other, twist the unripe fruit (choose the blemished ones) off leaving 2-3. This gives the others room to grow, but don't overdo it!

When pruning, use sharp secateurs so to form a clean cut. Ragged cuts will allow water to pool and will make it more likely to admit infection. Cut at 45 degrees to the axis of the stem. If cutting larger branches, use a saw and try not to leave level surfaces that will collect water. When shaping the tree, select a health bud that is facing in the direction you would like a branch to shoot - often to the "outside" of the tree, then cut the stem at 45 degrees 4-5mm distal to the bud. Cutting it too close to the bud will dry it out and risk that bud dying.